January 02, 2007
Sushi's raw power: Once rare on the South Shore, the fish
are now jumping
By Jessica Van Sack
Photo by Gary Higgins
 Not
so long ago, the only reason to buy raw fish on the South
Shore was to put it in a frying pan or on a hook. Now it 's
the hottest thing in dining. Sushi restaurants, sushi bars
and sushi menus are sprouting around the area. Most supermarkets
offer a selection of the Japanese delicacies.
In Canton, Takara recently opened on Washington Street. Walter
Chan, owner of Mr. Chan 's and Mozarella 's, opened Ichiro
's Sushi in East Milton Square this year. Asian C, the long-awaited
successor to Red Sauce, opened in Hingham over the summer.Quincy
has two new sushi restaurants, Sushi Time in the Quincy Fair
Mall and Beni Cafe on Hancock Street in North Quincy.
 Beni
Cafe is restaurateur Jimmy Liang's latest venture. "People
in Quincy like sushi," said Liang, who at 28 owns four
restaurants.
Kathy Fitzgerald of Dorchester began eating sushi eight months
ago and is a proponent of healthy eating. She was munching
on California rolls at Sushi Time last week. "I love
it. It's good for you. When I discovered that Quincy Center
had all this delicious Asian food, I said this is where I
want to live. I think Quincy Center is beating downtown (Boston)
by a mile now. "
Liang said his customers order real sushi, not the veggie
versions that often serve as an introduction to raw fish.
At Beni, Liang said, the concept is quick and casual. The
menu isn't high on frills, like Liang's upscale ventures.
It offers combination plates for $6 and under. Liang said
his goal was to cater to a clientele that might not be able
to afford the $12-a-plate sushi rolls at fancier establishments.
 Rick
Fosa, 48, and daughter Nicole Fosa, 20, both of Weymouth,
stopped at Beni last week."We're big advocates of sushi,
" Rick Fosa said. "We pretty much do everything
(on the menu). You can't compare anything to the flavor of
raw fish. It's just healthier." Like father, like daughter.
"It's different from anything else you eat," she
said.
Having sold his original Fuji restaurant in Wollaston, Liang
owns Fuji 1546 and recently acquired the nearby Crown Royal
Bakery, in addition to a bakery in Chinatown. He runs the
businesses with a partner, Peter Tse, 28, of Quincy.
Dwayne Law, 40, who owns Sushi Time in Boston 's Downtown
Crossing, agreed that sushi is spreading on the South Shore.
That 's why he chose Quincy Center for his second location.
Law, 40, has lived in Quincy for 15 years. He said he knew
the food-court style setup in the Quincy Fair Mall might pose
a challenge because it lacks storefront visibility, and he
hopes to eventually find a location for a full-scale restaurant.
Sushi Time 's chef, Steve Goh, said a lot of customers are
surprised that the food court inside Quincy Fair Mall has
a sushi bar.
Law said, "So far it 's a little slow, but I 'm not concerned.
Sushi is becoming more popular. "
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